National Museum 31st August

Egyptian lions

Nativity Scene

Today we decided to visit the National Museum which is highly recommended in my guidebook.  It is a half hour walk from the flat, walking along the Nile past some very grand government buildings and hotels.  According to my guidebook there is a charge for entry, but we were told that there was no charge.  The museum is entirely devoted to the archaeology of Sudan.  It gives a very clear chronological overview from the very earliest pre-historic finds up to the beginning of Islam in the 7^th Century encompassing large sections on Egyptian Nubia and early Christian frescos rescued before the construction of the Nasser Dam.  The museum is worth more than one visit to appreciate it fully.

Thursday 30th August visiting CLIK

Becca has recommended that it would be a good idea to visit the Catholic Language Institute Khartoum (CLIK) which is in an area of Khartoum called Amarat.  CLIK produce a highly recommended Sudanese Arabic text book and also do language courses.  Jennifer and Martin both want to do an intensive course.  I have decided to learn properly when I reach Ed Damer, perhaps in exchange for English lessons, while relying on my limited phrases which I learnt before coming here for now. 

We took an amjad (a type of small, cheap taxi) but had great difficulties finding the right street.  Two hours later, feeling very hot and sticky, we finally found it.  We were led into a lovely cool old building and met a French La Salle brother who discussed our requirements with us.  He told us that the main aim of CLIK is to help Catholic organisations and also volunteers from other organisations rather than operate as a commercial school.  Jennifer and Martin were able to work out a tailor-made course for the short amount of time we are in Khartoum.  He gave a discounted rate taking into account that they are two people and both volunteers.  The textbook was beyond my means, so he offered me a slightly defective copy at a much reduced rate.  Afterwards he offered us a lift back towards the flat as he was going into town.  We very gratefully accepted.

29th August post

Today I decided to visit the British Council for the first time to see what is available there.  It is walking distance from the flat, so I left early to avoid the heat of the day.  I found the building quite easily following my map.  The British Council no longer has a library due to budget cuts.  However, I was introduced to several English teachers who work there and allowed to look at teaching materials, which was useful.

In the evening I walked down to Nile Street, the equivalent to the Embankment in London.  The Nile is a great deal bigger than the Thames though.  On the way there and back to the flat, I passed the Ministry of Justice, where very official looking guards sat at the gates.  They all wanted to practice their very limited English, ‘Hello, how are you?’  I am finding generally that people are keen to do this, and that this is the standard phrase.  The other thing people ask is whether I am English.

28th August - ethnographic museum

Today Jennifer, Martin and I decided to go out early rather than facing the heat of the day.  We went to the Ethnographic Museum, which I had spotted on Sunday on my way to the cathedral.  It was small but gave a very interesting overview of the different ethnic groups in Sudan, both African and Arab.  My favourite exhibit was a magnificent war drum made out of a single piece of wood in the shape of a cow. Afterwards we walked slowly back to the flat, stopping for lunch on our way.

In the afternoon, Rami came to fetch Martin and me to look for compatible dongles.  I brought my laptop with me so we could make sure it worked with my computer.  To my joy, we found one on a very reasonably priced package, giving unlimited use for the next three months.

27th August - more wedding celebrations

Rather than giving a blow-by-blow account from now on I will write the main things that happen. Today I found an internet cafe and was able to check my bank account and emails.  For some reason emails and international texts don’t seem to be working through my mobile, which is quite a nuisance.  In the past I have had problems finding a compatible dongle for my laptop, so finding one here might prove difficult.  The internet cafe’s internet connection was frustratingly slow, so I am very keen to find a better alternative.

In the evening we all went to another evening of wedding festivities for the same bride and groom as the event on my first day here.  This time the event was held in a huge air-conditioned room.  There were many tables and chairs for all the guests.  The bride and groom were dressed western-style, as were the bridesmaids.  They came in doing a slow, very expertly rehearsed, dance.  Then the bride and groom were led to throne-like seats where there were many photos taken.  There was a band which started the evening with western-style music, followed by an excellent local singer.  There was a lot of dancing the whole evening.  Food was served, almost identical to the food served at the previous wedding event.  There was a mixture mainly of meat and bread.  At 11pm precisely the singer stopped singing, in mid-phrase.  However the band took over.  Later Becca explained that there is a very strict law in Sudan that celebrations must end by 11pm.  She said it was the first time she had been to an event where this was ignored.

 

Sunday 26th August

I went to Mass at the Catholic Cathedral today.  My understanding from internet research was that Mass was at 9.30.  I arrived to find an Arabic Mass in mid-progress, with the Cardinal officiating.  I joined in.  The church was crowded with an entirely African congregation, including lots of babies and small children.  It was a sung mass with instruments.  Afterwards, I asked a nun if there is also an English Mass.  She said that the 10am and 6.30pm masses are in English.  I stayed for the 10am mass, which also had music, but was much less crowded.  The hymn book was specially written for the Sudan Diocese by some Italian priests.  The church itself is built in the Italian style, so it is clear that Italian missionaries were/are very active here.  The liturgy was the new English translation which has only been in use since September 2011.

After Mass I walked back by a slightly different route which I think is more direct and also better shaded.  The roads in this part of town are properly metalled, the first that I have seen here.  Shops seem to be organised by type, so that there will be a large number of shops selling men’s shoes, or travel agencies all huddled together.

The heat is at its most bearable, predictably, either early or late in the day.  Now that it is the heat of the day, I am writing this diary, doing more hand-washing etc.  In other words, lying low.

25th August - Day 2 in Khartoum

Today I got up early and had another mango and plenty of water.  After a shower, and feeling much fresher, I decided to make a start on cleaning the floors of the flat, which are very gritty.  Rajeev has told me that the floor gets filthy faster than it can be cleaned.  I also did some clothes-washing. 

I had my Blackberry unlocked and a Sudanese SIM card installed today, much to my relief.  I was pleased to see that I can still get my emails without having to re-set the phone.  For lunch I went out and found a stall selling tamiya (a Sudanese style falafel). 

Later in the day, Rami, the SVP coordinator, came and took my passport and photos so he can organise internal visas and a resident’s visa for me.  He told me that I will be going to a town called Ed Damer, which is on the River Nile, to the north of Khartoum.  It is a state capital, quite near Meroe, where the famous pyramids are.  Becca also came and we had a chat.  We were told that two more volunteers, a couple, were arriving this evening.  Raj will share with the husband and I will share with the wife.  I tidied the room to make room as my unpacked suitcases were using up the whole room.

In the evening I went in search of food and found a kebab stall.  The kebab was very much smaller than in the UK and much tastier.  When I came back, the new volunteers had arrived.  Their names are Jennifer and Martin, and they had just arrived from Ethiopia where they were teaching at a summer school.  They were totally shattered.